HIX @ The TramShed

May 29, 2012 by     No Comments    Posted under: British

This brand new restaurant has been the subject of much eager anticipation in the office ever since we saw the signs outside the previously empty and somewhat abandoned space that was the Tramshed, which announced that Mark Hix would be opening a new restaurant there. Every day we strolled past, checking out the building work, until we almost forgot that it was there….until one day, suddenly, it was open!

The restaurant has a very simple, but equally rather exciting concept (at least for a massive carnivore like me). All they serve is chicken or beef. Or more precisely, steak. When I found this out I thought I had died and gone to heaven…a restaurant that does my two favourite food groups, and nothing else? Amazing. And yes, in my mind “steak” and “chicken” are definitely food groups all of their own.

The interior is spacious and airy, with clean modern lines in all the counters, tables and surfaces everywhere. It felt like it would be a great place to have a casual lunch date or business lunch to impress a client with your hip, but understated sophistication. The interior, amazingly, is decorated with original works from Damien Hirst, of pickled cow fame. Suspended over the open plan restaurant is another pickled cow (yes art snobs I know its actually formaldehyde, but pickled sounds better) with a rooster perched on its back. And for all you 80s kids, there’s a picture of Cow & Chicken on the back wall. You know who I mean.

But enough waffle….”how about the food!?” I hear you cry. Well. In one word? Exceptional. If you’re sick of reading, here’s the summary: go there. Don’t think. Go. The menu, while incredibly simple, is also equally incredible in its perfection. We ordered from the takeaway menu, and I had a half chicken and chips, with an apple pie for dessert as I felt especially greedy. Kun had the steak sandwich.

The chicken was beautifully cooked, soft, moist and succulent, with a very simple flavour. But don’t mistake simple for dull. The richness and depth of the roasted meat was really fantastic, perfectly seasoned to bring out the natural flavour of the chicken. The chips were equally wonderful, absolutely perfectly cooked: crisp on the outside, soft and fluffy on the inside. I would note however that they were more frites/fries than the traditional chunky chips I expected, but I loved them all the same. The apple pie I had after was quite comfortably the best apple pie I’ve ever bought anywhere, ever. The filling was substantial, apple-ey, with just the right balance of sharpness and sweetness. The pastry however, as any pie-lover knows, is where a pie lives or dies. And this one was a perfect example of good shortcrust pastry. Crisp, crumbly, warm and rich all at once, it was neither to thick or too thin, and had the delicious almost biscuity taste that all good sweet pastry should have. Definitely worth it, and to hell with your diet.

Kun’s steak sandwich, according to him, was “The best steak sandwich he’s ever had. Ever. Anywhere.” So yeah, there’s that. I haven’t had the pleasure of trying it myself, but from the looks alone I had a major case of food envy. The steak is cut from a large, perfectly ¬†cooked (little bit rare in the middle) piece of meat in thick, extremely generous slices, layered on top of lettuce in a piece of ciabatta, and topped with three fresh, crisp onion rings. It looked absolutely fantastic and I have it on good authority that the taste was equally amazing.

HIX at The Tramshed

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Address

32 Rivington Street,
Shoreditch,
London,
EC2A 3LX

Telephone (020) 7749 0478
Nearest tube

Old Street

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